Arkansas: The People Rule!
What a day! After saying good bye to John and Jenny at the Oak Hill Court 
and thanking them for their hospitality, I was off for another busy day. First stop, Pea Ridge Military National Park . There I met with Glen Jones of the Heritage Trail Partners.
Glen had contacted me some time ago and arranged for us to meet with John C. Scott, Superintendent of the park, for a personal guided tour. I was delighted to discover when I arrived that I was greeted not only by Glen and John, but several other members of Heritage Trail Partners — including the Mayor of Pea Ridge , Jackie Crabtree. (What a treat!) There was also a journalist from the local Pea Ridge newspaper, the Times of Northeast Benton County . Mayor Crabtree generously presented a wonderful book on the history of Pea Ridge, and what a history there is! After chatting with the mayor about his town, we were off for our tour.
The park is truly spectacular and pristine. Whether you are a Civil War enthusiast, are interested in the Butterfield or the Trail of Tears , or just simply love nature, this park is for everyone.
Unfortunately, not everyone gets the privilege of touring the grounds with John as their guide and Glen as his " Confederate" foil. At one point John was telling me about a particular moment in the battle when the Confederates were forced to retreat: Glen playfully reminded him that this was actually a "180 degree tactical advance." They make a great team.
I love the story of their first meeting. John hadn't been superintendent long when a tall "intimidating man" (his words — Glen is actually one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet) showed up at the park and asked, "Superintendent, why aren't you flying the Confederate flag here at the park headquarters?"
The new superintendent replied, "Because they lost." They've been great friends every since.
John's knowledge and appreciation of history is really brought to light as he interprets the sights. While you gaze out at the vast open fields, the battlefield comes alive. You can imagine the gun blasts, the smell of gun powder, the flowing of blood and the sorrowful screams of young men giving their life for a cause. It was at once inspiring and somber.
Next, we were on to an actual stretch of the Butterfield route that runs through the park. We climbed on John's utility vehicle, the modern day mule, and headed down the path — over rocks and downed tree limbs, past a creek, and finally to the site of an old tannery contemporary to the Butterfield's day.
What a thrill! This was one of my favorite parts of the tour. I could actually imagine Ormsby bumping along this trail, as I was now, 150 years later to the day! As I looked over the side of the car, I wondered if the scattered stones I was seeing and feeling were the very ones that made Ormsby's ride so rough . He was certainly correct when he described this part of the journey as, "steep and rugged."
I learned one thing while at Pea Ridge that I think is important to our understanding of the Butterfield Route. Much as our modern highway systems, the Route served more than just the commercial and communication needs of a growing nation. John pointed out to me that for a brief moment in time, the Route also served as an evacuation route. Like the millions today who use our highways to escape natural disasters, tens of thousands fled Arkansas to escape the destruction and lawlessness that ensued in the period after the Civil War ended.
I could have spent many more hours soaking up all the knowledge my guides had to share, not to mention the beauty of the surroundings, but as usual my time was up and I had to be off.
My next stop was Lowell, Arkansas, and Lowell Elementary School. Thanks to a generous invitation from Kathy Hansen, another Heritage Trail partner and Media Specialist at Lowell Elementary, I'd been invited to meet with about 160 of her 4th and 5th grade students.
What a treat! It was a pleasure to share with them the stories of the Butterfield Overland Route, Wells Fargo History and my trip. I had a great time and I hope the students did, too. I wish to thank Kathy Hansen for her hospitality, for setting up this event and for the school t-shirt. I can't wait to wear it!
I also want to think all the students for their participation. Thanks to Kailey Pliler, the student who left the comment: I got it! To all the students at Lowell Elementary, your mail has now joined with Ms. Decker's class mail, and is safe and secure and on its way to San Francisco!
As if the day hadn't been exciting enough, I rushed from Lowell Elementary to Springdale, Arkansas, to the home of Jay and Sarah Barryman for another brush with the past and a meeting with the board of directors of the Heritage Trail Partners.
There is a stable on the Barrymans' property, made of stone, for horses used on the Butterfield Route. What an experience to walk through that stable, knowing that John Butterfield himself tended horses there, known as Fitzgerald's station at the time. On the Butterfield Route, "swing stations" were scheduled every 12 miles or so to change horses, and "home stations" every 45 milers or so for meals. According to the Barrymans, Fitzgerald's was a meal station as well as a changing station.
I really enjoyed walking the grounds — so did Eddie and Charlie! — and visiting with all the folks from Heritage Trail Partners. Everyone was so gracious and welcoming. Before I left, the President of the Heritage Trails Partners , John McLarty, presented me with some wonderful gifts. I was honored to meet with all the folks from Heritage Trails Partners, who have worked so hard to preserve the rich history of northwest Arkansas. I'll always remember their kindness, hospitality and generosity.
And a special thanks to the Barrymans for the tour and for letting me and the RV invade their property! This was my first visit to Arkansas and if these folks are representative of people in The Natural State , I'll definitely be back.
Before I headed out, I got a copy of Driver's Guide to the Butterfield Overland Mail Route, Volume One: Missouri, Arkansas & Oklahoma , published by the Heritage Trails Partners. It was presented — hot off the presses! — by the author, Kirby Sanders. Mr. Sanders expects the next volume out very soon, and I look forward to reading it. Kirby is a great guy, full of knowledge of the Butterfield Route particularly, as his book attests. He led us along Old Wire Road , part of the original route to Fayetteville (another stagecoach stop), and through a vast tract of property between Rock Street and Spring Street once owned by John Butterfield.
After showing us a couple of spots in downtown Fayetteville, he led us to some of the best BBQ I've had in a while — a finger-licking good dinner and great conversation at the Penguin Ed's B&B Bar- B-Q . Thanks again, Kirby, for the book and your hospitality!
So, with my fried peach pie to go (takes an extra 12 minutes but so worth it), I headed off to Alma, Arkansas for a stay at the KOA.
Comments
Hey Casey,
Do you know what a cool job you have?! Not only do you get to reenact a historical event you get to meet very cool people along the way and have your dogs with you too! I like the way you paint the picture of your experience and I try to liken it to Ornsby's. The trials and tribulations you experienced on your "power drive" out to the starting point are reminescent of early trips (In fact, it awakens some of the memories of trips when I was a kid, as I am sure it will for many).
Can you imagine at the end of each day's trip having to feed/water horses, check on the functioning of the stagecoach, ensure that your passengers are also fed, and manage the safety of the precious cargo you are carrying? We take so much for granted these days, all the luxuries in modern day technology; it is very easy to forget the difficulties that occurred in travel and communication (esp. with mail). I would really like to hear more tie-in of Ornsby's travels to yours, like the quote you did on a previous post. I like the comments on the various sights and the people you are meeting along the way. I also like the style in which you write and the positiveness of the experiences you are having. It really goes to show that most people in our Nation wish the best to their fellow citizens and that generosity is universal. Something that, unfortunately, does not often make the news. Keep on trucking and writing. The kids you are talking to along the way will remember this experience!
I am so enjoying this. This is a long message, I know, but I want to emphasize the impact of what you (and Wells Fargo) are trying to accomplish; very important in our current situation.
To coin a part from that very ubiquitous song that many find annoying, "it is a small world after all." :-)
Posted by: tenaj | September 24, 2008 02:58 PM
Hey Casey, Scottie is here today and we just read your blog and it is very interesting and you are doing a great job! I will follow it again for sure! Nanette
Posted by: Nanette | September 24, 2008 02:59 PM
Hello, Mr. Gill. I'm Jacci Perry a.k.a. Trail Boss for the Butterfield Trail Ride that Hurrican Ike upset! I'm so glad you met up with Ms. Hansen, Glen Jones & the rest. I am in San Diego, CA & Glen Jones mentioned a Wells Fargo Museum...so here I am & there you are! Have a Safe Trip & congrats on your historical travels! Jacci Perry, www.heritagetrailpartners.com
Posted by: Anonymous | September 24, 2008 02:59 PM
You look Fabulous in your costume. But you know that, don't you.
But on a more serious note, someday I want to see your lesson that you give to schools along the way. I'm sure its Fabulous, too.
Posted by: Megan | September 24, 2008 03:01 PM
Thanks for the comments! Tenja - Yes indeed I know what a cool job I have! Wells Fargo is a great company to work for because they really appreciate history. I will try to incorporate more of Ormsby.We have a lot of video coming and I do mention his observations more in those. The first thing I do when I get to a site is say, "o.k. Let's see what Ormsby says." He is my guide. Nanette - Thanks for following!! Jacci Perry a.k.a. Trail Boss. So sorry to hear what my nemesis Ike did to your historic trip. But please enjoy your trip to San Diego and do visit my museum in Old Town. If you enjoy San Diego half as much as I enjoyed Arkansas you will have a blast! Hi Megan and thank you! I will share my power point with you. But, this just helps me to focus. You know I like to perform and tell stories so that is the thrust of my tours with the kids. Thanks again to you all and keep reading!
Posted by: casey a.k.a. Ormsby II | September 24, 2008 03:01 PM
My - you look so dapper in your outfit!! Any photos of you with a period "HAT"? A visitor to our Wells Fargo History Museum in San Francisco just asked why so many stagecoach passengers lost their hats (I assume it was from the wind)...
History is certainly coming "alive" with all that you are sharing in retracing the Overland Mail route. LOVE reading your adventures and look forward to each & everyone!
Posted by: Joycee | September 24, 2008 03:02 PM
Casey-
My personal thanks to you and Juan for the last-minute stop in Springdale / Fayetteville. I hope the book has given you some additional insight into the rigors of the route between stations. Any info I might offer along the road, do not hesitate to call or e-mail.
-kirby-
Posted by: kirby sanders | September 27, 2008 06:17 AM
Thank you Joycee for the compliments. I do love putting on that outfit despite how hot it is. It does make me feel dapper!I didn't bring my hat with me - let's just say it blew off. Yes, I believe that is what happened to most of the traveler's hats. Kirby, it was truly a pleasure and I enjoyed my stop in Springdale/Fayetteville. Everyone there is so great, I was kinda sad to leave. (And the BBQ was some of the best I've had on the trip but don't tell Texas!) Your book was extremely helpful and I've been telling everyone about it. Some of the Texas folks may have already or will be getting in touch with you. They were very interested in your next volume as am I. Please keep in touch and let me know when the next volume is completed.
Posted by: casey a.k.a. Ormsby II | September 29, 2008 08:34 PM