I awoke at the Ft. Smith/Alma KOA , a great little spot with a pond full of friendly ducks that come right up to your front door for a crumb of bread.

We were headed for Van Buren, Arkansas , another quaint little town located on the Arkansas River. From there the Overland stagecoaches crossed the river on the way to Ft. Smith. First called Phillip's Landing, the name was changed in 1836 in honor of President Martin Van Buren . Ormsby described Van Buren as a "flourishing little town."

From Van Buren we crossed the Arkansas River  into Ft. Smith. 150 years ago this morning (just after midnight) Ormsby crossed the river in a flatboat led by a guide with a lantern on horseback. Fortunately for us, there's a bridge.

Once in Ft. Smith, Arkansas , we discovered a Butterfield marker outside the Ft. Smith History museum . Much to our delight, the marker had balloons tied to it!

Intrigued, we wandered into the museum and approached the very friendly staff including the Executive Director. I inquired about what exhibits they may have commemorating the Butterfield and was disappointed to learn they had nothing in the museum — just the marker next to the front door. In fact, the Executive Director told me, they hadn't even realized it was the 150th Anniversary until a visitor read the sign and pointed it out yesterday, hence, the balloons.

So we made our way down the street to explore the grounds of Ft. Smith National Park  — a well preserved fort with many original buildings, including the gallows where 67 men were hung for various crimes. From Ft. Smith our journey took us into Oklahoma, which in Ormsby's time was known as Indian Territory. There we traveled through Checotah , which, as a large billboard proudly reads, is the home of Carrie "I Ain't In Checotah Anymore" Underwood .